A Day We'd Like To Forget

Sunday

We woke up bright and early, checked out of our hotel, and hopped in a taxi for what we thought would be a quick cab ride to the airport. It was Sunday morning, after all. Traffic flowed smoothly on the toll motorway, although we did see the incongruous sight of bicyclists – lots of them – cycling on the shoulder. Can’t ever recall seeing bicyclists on a freeway in the USA. As soon as we took the airport exit, though, we basically had bumper-to-bumper traffic all the way to the International Terminal, for what seemed like at least 45 minutes. The meter kept climbing and the cab’s gas gauge was on "E". Mark tried to engage the Sri Lankan cabbie in small talk about his team's tough loss to Pakistan in the recent Twenty-Twenty Cricket final, but secretly Mark was really worried that we would either run out of cash, or he would run out of gas, and we’d be stuck hoofing it the rest of the way to the airport.

Sherry washing out our teacups in the hotel bathroom

Our hotel room overlooked the Chief Secretary's Building and Royal Botanic Gardens

For those of you who’ve never been there, the Sydney airport is big, and unfortunately we got dropped off at one end of the terminal when our Air New Zealand flight check-in was on the other end. We were running late, and it seemed like we rolled our luggage a good kilometer through the crowds at a half-run, trying to prod Ro to keep up. We would have barely made our flight on time, but it turns out it was delayed due to bad weather in Auckland, so Sherry had time to make her requisite coffee run and we picked up a few small souvenirs for the kiddies back home.

Our flight went well, because Ro was happy with his own personal in-flight entertainment system, watching WALL-E and Pinocchio, although he wasn’t too enamored of his smoked chicken frittata (the alternative was a salmon salad). Sherry amused herself with some Flight of the Conchords episodes (if you haven’t seen the one where Jemaine dates an Australian girl – gasp! – you owe it to yourself), while Mark caught The Boat That Rocked (very funny, highly recommended). About halfway through the flight, we ran into a major storm system that was affecting most of the North Island, causing us lots of turbulence, and a crackdown from the flight crew on people getting up to use the toilet. We got in late to Auckland, with only 50 minutes to get our bags, get through customs, switch to the Domestic Terminal, and check in again. We put Ro on one of two baggage trolleys (i.e. carts) so we’d make better time, and it worked pretty well. We breezed through customs, but when we went through the biological quarantine checkpoint, we hit a little snag.

Sherry carrying a pooped Ro through Auckland airport

The airport x-rayed our bags before we could leave the terminal to make sure we hadn’t brought any contraband into the country. Mark had filled out our arrival cards on the plane stating we had nothing to declare, and Sherry signed hers. Sherry’s purse got flagged as it went through x-ray, and she couldn’t for the life of her imagine why. Maybe Ro’s magic markers looked like a bottle of liquid? Our hearts sank and a lump appeared in our collective throats when the customs agent pulled an apple out of the side pocket. With an Australian sticker on it, no less! This was what the officer called a "major" [violation]. Turns out Sherry had taken it from our hotel in Darwin as a back-up snack on one of her outings with Ro, but never used it…and forgot all about it. Half an hour, lots of dirty looks, and NZ$200 later, we were on our way to the Domestic Terminal, sans one very expensive apple. Ro screaming to the agents “But I want my apple!” didn’t help our burgeoning reputation as Ugly Americans.

The most expensive apple you'll ever see

After running through the chilly rain pushing our trolleys (it was faster than waiting around for the shuttle) to the other terminal, we were all breathless, soaked, sweating, and dismayed to find that our flight to Tauranga had just closed to boarding a few minutes earlier, despite being delayed itself. Ro would occasionally hop off the trolley on the way and run with us, then hop back on a few seconds later, claiming “I’ve got my exercise, you can push me now.” The domestic counter agent was very helpful, though, seeing our look of disappointment as we looked up at the board and came over to ask if we needed any assistance. The next flight to Tauranga was booked up, but we were able to get on the last flight of the day. At last, we were finally able to hit the head, as our back teeth were swimming at that point.

Ro passing time in the Auckland airport

Waiting around the airport for four hours proved difficult trying to keep Ro entertained. He could only watch the title screens on the arcade games refresh so many times, you know? And we very nearly missed our delayed flight despite sitting only about a hundred feet from the gate. Apparently, they either didn’t put out an initial boarding call over the PA, or both of us didn’t hear it. All we heard was the final boarding call, so we were off and running again, with Sherry clumsily stuffing Ro’s markers, pad, and toy airplane into her bag as we ran down the gangway and out onto the tarmac. Once on the small turboprop, things went smoothly. Ro got his usual lolly from the stewardess, and happily watched the propellers spinning in the rain as the lights of Auckland receded below us.

Sherry trying to persuade Ro not to jump off the moving ride

It was cold, windy, and pouring rain when we arrived in Tauranga, making a mad dash from the plane into the terminal. Mark went to go pick up the car from long-term parking while Sherry and Ro waited for the bags. Unfortunately, the day could not be complete without one last hiccup. The exit gate from the parking lot wouldn’t work! Every time Mark tried to insert the parking ticket into the machine, it would just spit it back out and the ticket kept getting wetter and wetter in the rain. Mark backed up to let another driver give it a shot, but he didn’t have any luck either. The other driver said he would go back to the terminal to tell the airport staff about it, but Mark was in no mood to wait at this point. He circled the parking lot, looking for a gap in the fence, and ended up jumping the curb and driving on the sidewalk to get out. After putting Ro into a quick bath and bed, we collapsed on the couch with a bottle of port, glad to be home at last.

The Hills Hit The Harbour City

Saturday

It was still dark as midnight when we left the Crowne Plaza and hopped in a cab at 6:15am. It’s kind of weird having such short winter days in such a warm, tropical place. The flights available to get from Darwin back to Tauranga are pretty onerous, timewise. We would have been looking at a 20+ hour trip unless we left at 1:45am – not an enticing option with a 5 year-old. So, we decided to break up the journey with a day in Sydney. We flew on JetStar, a new low-fare subsidiary of Qantas, famous for charging extra for nearly everything.

Sherry drying Ro's socks before our flight

While waiting for the plane, we picked up a few last-minute souvenirs, and Ro got a die-cast Qantas plane for his collection (he loves planes). As we boarded, we noted that the same lady who had puked on our van ride to the Jumping Crocodiles cruise was sitting just one row up and across the aisle. Mark envisioned her wheeling around out of her seat to run to the bathroom and spewing all over him. Fortunately, that never materialized.

Ro thankfully slept for the second half of the flight; we knew he would need extra rest for the day ahead. Looking out the plane window at the Outback passing underneath, it looked a lot like the American southwest, only flatter with redder dirt and fewer roads. With the exception of Alice Springs, there’s not a whole lot in the middle of Australia. All the cities of any appreciable size are on the coast, and it was easy to see why. As we gathered our belongings to stow them for landing, we discovered Ro had been sleeping on his (capless) red magic marker, and thus had red markings all over his shorts.

Ro exploring the cockpit after we landed in Sydney

Our taxi driver (from Bangladesh) offered us the choice of taking the expressway (and paying an extra $5 toll), or taking the city streets. Figuring it would be a wash, we elected to see a little more of the city so he took us through the neighborhood of Darlinghurst which was filled with gorgeous row houses, and down Oxford Street, which is the famed local gay district. Ro wondered what was so funny as we passed storefronts with double-entendre names like Thai Me Up, The Probe, Leather Connection, and Spank! Records.

We were duly impressed when we arrived at The Intercontinental, which is right next to the Royal Botanic Gardens. Normally, this place would have been waaaayyy out of our budget, but Mark used some of his Priority Club points to give us a free stay. Guess staying in all those crappy Holiday Inns while interviewing for residency and doing locums paid off, eh? In the lobby, they had live piano music to accompany their locally famous Saturday afternoon high tea. Although we were all famished, we figured $50 per person for a cuppa and some bikkies was a bit much.

Ro wanted to raid the minibar as soon as we got into the room, and was downright testy when we told him he couldn’t. He did enjoy, however, repeatedly opening the window to the bathroom. Yes, that’s right, there was a pane of frosted glass on a hinge that you simply pushed open to see into the bathroom. No lock. I’m not sure who thought this was a good idea, but they obviously didn’t take inquisitive 5 year-olds into account.

"Put your finger in the water, daddy!"

Swine flu paranoia still going strong

We coaxed Ro out of the room with the promise of food, and headed downstairs. He stopped to play in the fountain outside the hotel, then we walked down Macquarie St alongside the botanical gardens towards the Sydney Opera House, figuring there had to be something to eat around there. We were soon inundated with choices, all of which looked good, if a bit overpriced. But hey, you’re paying for the view, not the food. The most reasonably priced place also turned out to be one of the closest to the Opera House, a little gathering of tables alongside Sydney Cove called Portobello Café. The waiters were very patient with Ro, who had trouble making up his mind, and they even brought him a “baby chino” (what Kiwis call a “fluffy”) when Sherry ordered her cappuccino. Ro’s reliable restaurant staples are chicken nuggets, rice, plain spaghetti, or cheese pizza. Today it was a Margherita pizza, which was close enough. Mark & Sherry enjoyed a big plate of antipasto; the roasted red peppers were particularly good. Although we could have eaten more, it was a late lunch and we knew we were going to have a big dinner.

Ro eating the foam off his baby chino

There are a few city landmarks in the world so iconic, that so permeate our popular culture that you feel like you’ve already been there a hundred times. Times Square, the Golden Gate Bridge, the Mall in Washington, Piccadilly, the Eiffel Tower, the list goes on. The Sydney Opera House is a beautiful, striking building, to be sure, but what sets it apart from all those other places is what’s around it. Sydney Harbour is quite possibly the most gorgeous cityscape we’ve ever seen. Granted, we’ve never been to Rio de Janeiro or Hong Kong, but Sydney was pretty darn impressive.

Sherry & Ro with "The Coathanger" in background

Sherry at Sydney Opera House. Note the live band below

Ro & Sherry at Sydney Cove

The Opera House, which features daily performances year-round, is set out on a peninsula. All of its souvenir shops, cafes, and ancillary services are below ground level, so nothing obstructs your view - very well thought out. Ro’s favorite part of the place was the large cement support ramps, which made for good sliding down (only later did we notice the sign saying “Keep Off”), and the steps leading up to the Opera House, which made for good jumping down.

Ro wanted to be the tallest

Leave it to Ro to climb Sydney Opera House

The Hills in Sydney

As much as we would have liked to hang out at the Opera House longer, we only had one day in Sydney, and these winter days don’t last very long, so we moved on. Some ominous-looking rain clouds hung over the city all day, but it fortunately never rained. We walked up through the botanical gardens, where a wedding was being held, and continued on to a sort of sculpture garden where all the sculptures were old columns and facades from old buildings. We followed a paved trail that runs from the park over Macquarie St and continues alongside the expressway all the way to and across Harbour Bridge. The path is called Cahill Walk, and features some truly impressive views of Sydney Cove, the Opera House, Harbour Bridge, and the historic neighborhood known as The Rocks.

Sherry at the Opera House with the botanical gardens in background

Ro in the Royal Botanic Gardens

Where old facades go to die

Ro overlooking Sydney Cove

Don't ask...lol

The Hills at Circular Quay

Looking north on George Street in The Rocks from Cahill Walk

As we neared the Harbour Bridge, Ro was starting to fade; we had already done quite a bit of walking, and we were all getting thirsty. We had briefly entertained the thought of doing the whole 3.5 hour BridgeClimb experience, where you are led up onto the arched part of the bridge, tethered to a safety line, but kids have to be 10 years old to do it. Fortunately, after a little prodding, Ro caught his second wind and we made it across the bridge to Milsons Point, enjoying the sight of the city lights coming on as the sun set. We promptly stopped in a convenience store for two big bottles of water, then made our way down to the shore to check out Luna Park, which we had seen from the Opera House.

Sherry & Ro crossing Sydney Harbour Bridge

Mark & Ro savoring the view of the Opera House

Sydney as dusk approaches

View from Milsons Point

Luna Park is a Coney Island type amusement park on the north side of Sydney Harbour, at the foot of the bridge. The Ferris wheel can be seen easily from across the harbour, and that’s what Ro wanted to ride. Not much bigger than a Ferris wheel at a state fair, The London Eye it wasn’t, but Ro still had fun. And seeing the lights of Luna Park below us and its Crystal Palace (where the previously mentioned wedding couple were having their reception) made us remember what it was like to be a kid at a carnival again. For anyone thinking of going, Luna Park is fairly pricey if you’re just staying a short time, but would be more reasonable if you were going to spend a whole afternoon or evening there. After riding the Ferris wheel, we hopped on a water taxi to take us to Darling Harbour. The water taxis seem to take you nearly everywhere in Sydney a tourist would want to go, except maybe the beach, and it’s a lot nicer than fighting city traffic in a rental car.

Ro & Sherry at the entrance to Luna Park

Sherry at Luna Park

Ro enjoying the Ferris wheel

Ro on the water taxi in Darling Harbour

For anyone who’s ever seen Finding Nemo, you should be familiar with our next stop: the Sydney Aquarium! Easily the best aquarium we’ve been to, including Monterey and Baltimore, the Sydney Aquarium gets a lot of mileage out of just using sealife native to Australia. Most aquariums have sharks, but Sydney’s were a lot bigger and there was a lot more of them. They even had dugongs, a relative of the Florida manatee. Guess what they feed the dugongs - Romaine lettuce leaves hand-inserted into racks so it stands on end – that’s right, dugongs basically live on Caesar salad! Although a bit cheesy and patronizing, there was a SpongeBob theme in many of the exhibits, but the kids got a kick out of it, and the fish didn’t seem to mind. Plenty of real-life Nemos and Dorys, too.

A once-in-a-lifetime gathering: crocs, Ro, & SpongeBob

Ro was too busy looking at the dugongs to pose

A stingray soars above Sherry

Ro in one of several tunnels at Sydney Aquarium

This shark seemed to like Sherry a lot

Word spreads fast among sharks. Note Squidward's house

Ro soooo wanted to get in the tank to meet them

After spending a couple of hours at the aquarium, we were all hungry, so we walked along Cockle Bay (the next cove over from Sydney Cove). There were tons of restaurants, all of which were crowded with patrons watching the Wallabies rugby union test match against France. After perusing some menus, we settled on Adria Rybar & Grill. The food was very good; Mark had a Barramundi fillet, and Sherry the chicken prosciutto. Not willing to waver from his usual fare, Ro went with spaghetti noodles, although we were amazed that he actually tried red sauce for the first time…and liked it! The waiter had wisely brought Ro’s food out first, but his dinner was soon interrupted by the crackle and boom of fireworks over Darling Harbour. Ro immediately rushed to the railing to watch the show, jumping up and down with giddy delight. By the time he got back to his food, he apparently forgot that he liked the red sauce, muttering “what’s this stuff?” with a look of disgust on his face. Oh well.

Looking over the kids menu at Adria

"Look, Mommy! Fireworks!"

Ro got his 4th of July fireworks a week early

Do you think Ro liked his dessert?

After dinner, we walked past some nightclubs on our way back to the hotel. Mark’s observation: there seemed to be a LOT of young women in Sydney dressed alike in barely-there miniskirts with leggings to keep their legs warm, with glittery tops and stiletto heels. Either we stumbled into a red light district and didn’t know it, or we’re getting old. Is the mini with leggings a trend back in the States and we missed it? Have the 80’s recycled already? Or is Oz just a quarter-century behind Los Angeles?

We walked back to our hotel through the CBD (Central Business District), enjoying the hustle and bustle of such a cosmopolitan city on a beautiful Saturday night. Ro rode on Mark’s shoulders to speed things along, since it was way past Ro’s bedtime. Sherry surprised Ro when we got up to the room and let him work the electric window blind. You’d think he’d discovered uranium when he hit that switch. Mark went up to the top floor to check out the pool, but it was closed. While up there he snuck into the Ambassador Club behind another patron. He turned on his heels before the bouncer could question him, but not before taking in an amazing expansive view of the city. No time to take a pic, unfortunately. Once back in our room, Sherry put the kettle on and we enjoyed a cuppa as we wrote more postcards, and Mark savored watching something he hadn’t seen in 5 months: SportsCenter! With American sports!

Ro sacked out hard after a long day exploring Sydney

More Tales From The Top End

Friday

Conference venue Holiday Inn Esplanade

On our third morning in Darwin, Mark was off to the final day of his Emergency Medicine conference, and Ro and Sherry were on their own again. Having stopped by a local grocery the previous evening, Sherry & Ro had brekkie in the room today, dining on day-old scones from the bakery, fresh fruit, and tea. They took a taxi to Crocodylus Park, about 15 minutes from the heart of Darwin city, and supposedly "the best place in Australia to come face to face with the largest reptiles on the planet."

See link: http://www.crocodyluspark.com/

Ro piloting a swamp boat

The ads aren't lying; there were a lot of crocs, some with massive heads about as big as Ronan's body. In addition, the park is home to a couple of lions and tigers (no bears), dingos, emus, ostriches, a cassowary, water buffalo, snakes and reptiles, an ocelot, a variety of monkeys, and other exotic birds. Ronan had a great time, but by midday the heat was getting to him, and he was begging to go have a swim back at the hotel. Unfortunately, Sherry is still unable to swim because of her recent surgery, and without Mum in the pool, Ro lost interest pretty quickly.

Crocs, crocs, and more crocs

Not a croc. A wallaroo, actually

After grabbing lunch in the hotel room, Sherry decided to try to find the World War II storage tunnels. Following the bombing of Darwin in 1942 when the original above-ground oil tanks were destroyed, an innovative solution was to build a series concrete and steel lined tunnels for fuel storage. The construction of the tunnels was part of an overall defence strategy for Australia and the Pacific region. Building commenced in 1943 and 8 tunnels were planned. However, only 5 were actually constructed. Difficulties and delays in construction, material deficiencies and the inability to effectively seal the tunnels from infiltration of water meant that the tunnels were never actually used for their initial purpose.

Ro & Sherry at the WWII tunnels

"That's okay, mommy, you can go first."


Storage tunnel extending farther than you can see

In 1992, to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the bombing of Darwin, tunnels number 5 and 6 were opened to the public and today the steel lined walls feature a photographic display of Darwin during WWII. They are truly amazing to tour, as they go quite deep under the city. Ronan likened them to caves that Scooby Doo might go into looking for clues. Next stop was walking by the Parliament House and back downtown, where Ro was begging Sherry for a cold smoothie. They returned to the hotel to shower and meet up with Mark for dinner.

Ro fascinated by a didgeridoo player downtown. Note the spit coming out of the end

Ro grooving to the didgeridoo

When Mark got home, Ro wanted to burn off some energy, so they wrestled on the bed WWE style until we all got too hungry to wait anymore. We walked down to The Esplanade to scope out the restaurants. We didn't have reservations, and it was a Friday night so most of the places were pretty crowded. We ended up at Char Restaurant, which was able to squeeze us in to their last table on the condition we vacated it by 8pm (it was 6:20), so we took it. The food was excellent - even Ro liked it.

See link: http://www.charrestaurant.com.au/

Ro & Sherry dining al fresco at Char

After dinner, we leisurely made our way back to the hotel and had dessert - a king-size Kit Kat bar that Mark had won at the conference. One of the lectures he went to was a medical quiz-type thing, with some 80's Name That Tune thrown in for fun. When the first chords of the song came on, Mark's hand shot up the fastest, and he guessed it correctly: The J. Geils Band's Centerfold. Ro had managed to garner the lion's share of the Kit Kat, so after putting Ro in a bath and then bed, Sherry raided the minibar for a Cadbury Dairy Milk to quiet her chocolate craving. We had to get up early the next morning, so we spent a quiet evening in the room drinking wine, writing postcards, and watching the media circus on TV. RIP Michael and Farrah.

Ro wanted to sleep in Bear-Bear's hiding spot behind the curtain