A Little Polynesian Flavor

Saturday

We were woken up by a rooster crowing around 5am, but soon drifted back to sleep. Ro & Sherry went down to breakfast and let Mark sleep in a little bit. Ro started to leave the room in nothing but his shorts and sunglasses, telling Sherry matter-of-factly "You don't have to put a shirt on me, just let me wear my shades. Kelsea will think that's cool." Eating breakfast with Kelsea and her family, Sherry was able to talk with Kim about plans for tonight. Mark had tried yesterday to get reservations for The Edgewater's twice-weekly Island Night buffet and show tonight, but they were all booked up. Kelsea's family was going, and Ro was devastated that he wouldn't get to sit with Kelsea to watch the Polynesian dancers. Sherry went ahead and booked a table at the outside part of the restaurant anyway, even though we wouldn't be able to see the show inside.

What we wake up to every morning

After breakfast, we did what any good native or visitor to Raro does on a Saturday morning: head for the market! We had unknowingly detoured through the markets yesterday on our little scooter tour of Avarua, but they looked pretty low-key at the time, with just a few fruit stands. This morning, however, it looked like the whole island was there, with almost as many food stalls as you'd see at the NC State Fair. Of course, there wasn't just food; there were plenty of clothes and kitschy souvenirs like coconut shell ukuleles. Nearly everywhere were images and wood carvings of Tangaroa, the God of the Sea, complete with prominent genitalia.

Sherry cracking up as Ro digs in to "his" baguette

Sherry & Ro taking in the Saturday morning markets

Ro still gnawing away as he watches Polynesian dancers

Ro climbing a statue of Tangaroa

Polynesian dancers at the markets

Sherry bought a coconut from what she described as an "ancient lady with a machete," who with a few quick well-practiced chops and a twist of the blade handed Sherry a ready-to-drink coconut with a straw in it. As she gave it to Sherry, the woman noted that the coconuts were starting to warm up. "Gee, thanks" Sherry thought, "I wish you'd told me that before I ordered one." Dutifully drinking it to get her NZ$4 worth, Sherry eyed the coconuts floating in ice cold water in the neighboring stall with envy; Mark liked the coconut water, but didn't want to drink too much because he remembered from Cast Away that it was a natural laxative.

Hot donuts and warm coconut water...mmmm

We left the market on our scooters heading anti-clockwise around the island for a change of scenery. Mark wanted to check out Matutu, the only local brewery on the island. As we turned on to the dirt road leading to it, we drove right past it, since we were expecting something a little bigger. The road ended up in someone's yard, with clothes on the line and an unchained pit bull barking at us. Mark was able to turn his scooter around, but Sherry's was too heavy (especially with Ro on it) for a quick 3-point turn since there's no reverse gear (you just push it backwards with your feet), so she made the snap decision to continue up the diminishing road to get away from the dog. The road looked like it just wound endlessly up towards the mountains, so once out of sight of the dog, she managed to turn the bike, and raced past the snarling canine on the way back down! Ro was a little upset, not because he was scared, but because he wanted to "pet the woofy dog." When we finally noticed the sign above the brewery's door, Mark was disappointed to learn that it was closed on Saturdays. Oh well...looking into the windows, it didn't look like it was any sort of place that would be selling souvenir t-shirts anyway.

Ro & Mark at the ramshackle Matutu Brewery


Sherry & Ro on the brewery road after a run-in with a pit bull

Heading back clockwise around the island, we stopped at a nice beach access point on the south side of Raro, near Titikaveka. There were a couple of picnic tables there, and most importantly for Sherry - a loo. Taking care not to park directly under a coconut tree, which was forbidden in our rental agreement, we set about doing...absolutely nothing. Ahhhhh. Since it wasn't near any of the resorts, the beach was relatively deserted. There were a couple of sea kayakers to the east, and a family playing with their kids well down the beach to our west, so we essentially had the picturesque spot to ourselves. Since the sun runs north of Rarotonga, the palm trees cast some nice shade for us to relax in on the sand. Ro enjoyed playing with the coconuts and splashing in the gentle surf. Since this beach was much more typical of a sandy beach than the coral-strewn shore near The Edgewater, the swimming was much easier, as you didn't have to constantly watch where you were stepping.

Mark & Sherry on a beach near Titikaveka

Sherry found a hermit crab

Ro loved repeatedly pouring water out of a hollow coconut

Mark relaxing in the clear turquoise waters of the lagoon. He was soon surrounded by a school of needle fish

A family enjoying their makeshift waterslide

The Hills in Raro, near Titikaveka

Although the beach we were on had everything Mark and Sherry could want in a tropical paradise, with the possible exception of umbrella drinks, it lacked a vital element for Ro: Kelsea. After our mini mental-health break, we continued clockwise around the island, stopping in front of the infamous Hilton Rarotonga Resort. The story started in 1990, when the Cook Islands government borrowed tens of millions of dollars from Italian banks to create the country's first five-star resort. By mid-1993, the money had been siphoned away by Mafia-connected contractors who were laundering Mob money, and the sorry skeleton of the then would-be Sheraton has stood abandoned and unfinished ever since, suffering from a never-ending sequence of scandals and fraud. They were even going to divert the Ara Tapu 2km inland in order to make it a beachfront property, since it currently sits across the road from the beach. All the furniture they bought for the place was unloaded at cut-rate prices to the locals, so there's a joke on Raro that everyone has the same furniture.

The derelict Hilton Rarotonga Resort

Ro & Sherry across the street from the would-be Hilton

When we got back to our hotel, Ro immediately ran upstairs to visit with Kelsea, playing Nintendo DS with her and her older brother Joshua. Kim and her husband Mark (easy to remember, eh?) watched the kids while Sherry and Mark hit the beach. Sherry read her book while Mark wrote postcards and listened to his iPod, pausing to watch a beach wedding from the comfort of his lounge chair. We ate a light lunch - the last of Ro's baguette from this morning.

All the room lights turn off when you take your key out of the slot

Sherry relaxing on the beach in front of our room

The kids finally wanted to do something other than play video games, and we all met up at the pool. Sherry and Kim dipped their toes in while Ro and Kelsea splashed around, trying to stay out of the way of some people playing volleyball in the pool. Mark finally got to try Matutu beer at the hotel bar; it was good, but not exceptional.

Finally!

Ro chatting up Kelsea poolside

Kelsea & Ro going for a dip

Heading back to the room to dry off

After swimming, it was our turn to watch the kids. Ro and Kelsea played his VTech video game, admittedly much lamer than a DS, but at least it's educational. After showering for dinner, we went back to The Brasserie for Happy Hour. Sherry went early and scored what we call "the sunset table" for its view unobstructed by shrubs and close proximity to the bent-over palm tree the kids like to climb. We sat around talking with Kim & Mark and Tracy & Josh (a couple from Auckland) whose daughter Brianna was the crush of Kelsea's brother Josh. The kids busied themselves on the beach trying to open a coconut; they never did get it open, but it kept them occupied for a solid hour...lol.

Ro showing Kelsea his video game

Happy Hour

Sherry & Mark enjoying the sunset at The Edgewater

Kelsea & Ro share a moment

Sunset Saturday evening

Kelsea giving Ro a hand

Watching the waves crash on the reef

As Happy Hour wound down, the Island Night guests began to arrive and fill the restaurant. We took our table outside, which turned out to be only 20 feet or so from Kelsea's family's table. If we stood up, we could see the stage. The buffet was huge, but with most of the selections being seafood, only Mark would have enjoyed it, so we just ordered off the menu.

A quick peck on the cheek

We were waiting on our food when Sherry got one of those mother's instincts moments, since we hadn't seen Ro or Kelsea in a few minutes. We presumed they were down on the rocks at the beach or climbing trees again when we got a soggy surprise. Ro came toddling toward us from the pool on the other side of the buffet line, dripping wet. Apparently, he and Kelsea were playing a game of walking along the edge, going in opposite directions. There was a plant on the edge of the pool, and the ever-daring Ro decided to skirt around between the plant and the pool, instead of just walking around the outside of it. Sherry took him back to the room to change clothes, and he apologized profusely along the way, saying "You were right mommy. I CAN get hurt!" The food arrived just before they got back. Mark had a very good Marlin steak, Sherry had a ribeye, and Ro a cheese pizza, although he spent most of the meal sharing a chair with Kelsea at her table.

The Island Night show was fairly entertaining, with lots of drumming and Polynesian dancers; even the local kids took their turn. Ro and Kelsea soon disappeared again, and we all looked for them, finally finding then sitting on the floor right next to the stage for an up close view. Kim planted Joshua next to them to keep an eye on them and make sure they didn't wander off. Towards the end of the show, the MC called about a dozen audience volunteers up onstage to see what they could do, and who should volunteer himself but Ro! He tried to coax Kelsea up there with him, but no luck. Ro danced alongside a new bride as they twisted and gyrated to the drumbeat, receiving a well-earned round of applause. After the show, Ro put a flower in Kelsea's hair and they hugged goodnight. We put him to bed and sat on the patio with a cup of tea, addressing postcards and relaxing.

Ro strutting his stuff on stage

Polynesian dancers at The Edgewater's Island Night